That kinda sucks! I've only dryscraped a few hides, and they were either furs or elk. Usually with dryscraping, you want a razor-sharp edge on your tool; dryscraping fleshes the hide by cutting into it, because dry hides have to be cut into a little when they're fleshed dry.
I should also note that when you're dryscraping, you want a combination of tension and the sharp tool. If you flesh the hide when it's dry (only practical for cows and bigger animals most of the time) then you have to put it on a frame and let it dry out before you flesh it. If you use a small hide,like the skunk you talked about, the you should probably wet scrape it on a beam instead. For that you want a duller tool.
When you deyscrape a hide, it should usually get rid of the membrane if you do it efficiently. The best dryscraper I used consisted of a handle about 2 feet long and 1 and 1/2 inches thick, with a blade about 3 inches long and the same width as the handle. Remember, the edge needs to be unifacial! (that means that the bevel is only on one side) When scraping, the blade was held at a right angle to the hide and pulled down with both hands. Since this cuts into the hide you need to watch out so that you don't either tear a hole in the hide or cut too far down.
Oh and to remove the membrane when wtscraping, I soak the hide in warm soapy water. I mainly tan deer hides for buckskin though, for furs you can just flesh them and then stretch them out like they're already been brained! This only works if the animal dies in the winter though, because during the coldest months of the year (november to february) the furrier animals put on a lot of fat,and so the oils in the hide itself can tan the hide.
Best of luck! Remember, when dry scraping you need to put the hide on a frame and scrape it with a sharp tooL! I don't have as mich dryscraping experience as I do with wtscraping, but I have some, and hopefully it'll help you outa,